With bumper plate options more than covered across the Internet (here included), I figured it was time to tackle the options for standard weight plates, coated plates, and powerlifting discs. In this guide I’ll cover multiple styles, numerous brands, and offer up enough product examples for you to be able to evaluate any brand or style of plate you happen to stumble upon in your quest for iron.
If you know of a good set of plates not listed here, feel free to comment. We don’t so much need to hear about any more of the cheap plates though. If I listed every VTX, Weider, and X-Mark plate on the market this page would crash your browser.
Article last updated: SEPT 2019
- Simple Cast Iron Plates ($)
- Machined Cast Iron Plates ($$)
- Calibrated IPF Powerlifting Discs ($$$$)
- Rubber/Urethane Coated Plates ($$)
Cast Iron Plates – Cheap and (Generally) Inaccurate
Purchasing basic, cast iron plates is the cheapest way to load up on weight plates in a gym. Cast iron can be had new for as little as ~$1 a pound; both in chain stores and online. Make some effort to find them used and you can pay as little as $.50 per pound.
Whether you buy new or used you’ll want to keep one thing in mind, cheap cast Iron plates are known to be wildly inaccurate. Some of the cheaper brands and styles can deviate from the stated weight by 5-10%; brands like CAP Barbell for instance. Matter of fact, these kind of inaccuracies are going to be hard to avoid unless you upgrade to machined plates.
Online prices are competitive, but you generally still have to pay for shipping for all but the shittiest of plates. This is what makes at least checking the box stores appealing. If you do plan to buy cast iron plates in a local store you absolutely must bring a scale with you. It’s unlikely that you’ll find plates that are the stated weight, but you can at least try to make sure that each pair of plates you buy are the same weight. It seems better to have a pair of 47-lb plates than a 41-lb and a 48.5-lb plate, right?
Price Comparisons (45-pound pair)
 | Rep Fitness Basic Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron sold in pairs or sets. 3% accuracy guarantee. Best internet price for plates with any accuracy guarantee. Pair of 45’s: $80 |
 | Basic Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron with a dark grey finish and white lettering (Vulcan) or black finish and silver lettering (Rogue). 3% accuracy guarantee, 100-lb plates available, sold in pairs. Pair of 45’s (Vulcan Strength): $100 |
 | Body Solid Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron sold in pairs or sets. No accuracy guarantee. Sold Individually. Pair of 45’s: $107 |
 | CAP Barbell OP Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron with black finish and silver lettering. No accuracy guarantee, 100-lb plates available, potentially found in box-stores to avoid shipping, sold individually. Pair of 45’s: $110 |
 | Champion Cast Iron Grip PlatesBasic cast iron plates with black enamel finish and multiple hand grips. No accuracy guarantee, sold individually. Pair of 45’s: $110 |
 | Troy USA Model O Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron plates with milled edges and grey enamel. No accuracy guarantee, 100-lb plates available, sold individually. Pair of 45’s: $102 |
 | Body Solid Grey Cast Iron Grip PlatesBasic cast iron sold individually or in sets. Hammertone grey finish. 2% accuracy guarantee. Pair of 45’s: $125 |
 | VTX Model GO Cast Iron PlatesBasic cast iron with rust-resistant baked enamel finish, precision drilled hole, and handles. 100-pound plate available, sold individually. Pair of 45’s: $160 |
 | INTEK Cast Iron Olympic PlatesBasic cast steel with rust-resistant enamel finish and ergonomic design for easy transport, sold individually. Pair of 45’s: $176 |
 | CAP Barbell OPHG3 12-Sided PlatesBasic cast iron plates with 12-sides and handles. Has grey enamel finish, no accuracy guarantee, and sold individually. Stick with round plates though. Pair of 45’s: $176 |
There are countless brands & models of simple, cast iron plates out there. Honestly these cheap, inaccurate plates are so easy to find used that I think you’re throwing your money away by buying them new. If you care about accuracy even a little bit then you’re throwing your money away by buying them at all. You should be looking at machined or milled cast iron, which I’ll cover next.
Non-Calibrated, Machined Cast Iron Plates
While still not accurate enough to be considered ‘precise’, non-calibrated, machined plates tend to be far more accurate than the cheap plates from the previous section. Machining or milling plates leads to a more refined product. The final weight is easier to control, as are tolerances to both the center hole and overall diameter.
If you’re not willing to drop the cash for calibrated powerlifting discs, but you would still like to have a fairly good idea of how much weight you’re lifting while knowing both sides of the bar are balanced, machined plates are the way to go. Expect a 2% accuracy with machined plates. Here are some brand and pricing examples.
Price Comparisons (45-pound pair)
 | Rep Fitness Equalizer Cast Iron PlatesMachine, cast iron plates with drilled hole and grey or black enamel. 2% accuracy guarantee, sold individually or in sets. Great pricing if shipping to you is decent. Pair of 45’s: $130 |
 | York Legacy Milled Cast Iron PlatesThese cast iron plates are replicas of York’s original Olympic Standard Plate. They are milled to within 2% of indicated weight, and are sold individually. 100-pound plate available. Pair of 45-lb plates: $166 |
 | Rogue Machined Cast Iron Olympic PlatesMachined cast iron plates with grey hammertone enamel and raised black text. Weights are accurate to within 2%/-0%. Sold in pairs and a 245-pound set. Pair of 45-lb plates: $146 |
 | Rogue 6-Shooter Olympic Grip PlatesCast iron plates with grey hammertone enamel, raised black text, and symmetrical grip holes. Large plates are accurate to within 1%. Sold in pairs and a 245-pound set. Pair of 45-lb plates: $142 |
 | Rogue USA-Made Deep Dish PlatesCast ductile iron, deep dish-style plates with Rogue’s black E-coat finish. Made in Michigan and sold in 25, 35, 45, and 100 pairs, Rogue’s Deep Dish Plates are accurate to within 2% (+2% / -0%). Pair of 45-lb plates: $155 |
 | Troy Barbell Model HO Cast Iron PlatesMachined cast iron plates with grey hammertone enamel. Weights are accurate to within 2%, and 100-lb plates are available. Sold as single plates. Pair of 45-lb plates: $170 |
 | Ivanko OM-Series Machined Cast Iron Plates (lb & kg)High-quality casting, fully machined, drilled hole (not cast), and chip resistant baked-on-polyester paint. Available in pounds or kilos. 100-pound plate is available. Sold in singles. Pair of 45-lb plates: $201 |
 | Ivanko OMEZH Machined E-Z Lift Cast Iron PlatesSand-casted and machined cast iron plates with multiple EZ grip holes and chip-resistant baked-on-polyester paint. 100-pound plate is available. Sold in singles. Very nice, very expensive. Pair of 45-lb plates: $224 |
Again I strongly suggest you buy machined plates versus simple cast iron if you take your lifting seriously. The price difference isn’t that much (if you avoid Ivanko) considering that you get a pretty solid level of accuracy and a refined surface texture that’s far less likely to damage the sleeve finish and/or cut your hands.
When shopping around, please note that Troy has three divisions: Troy Barbell (commercial line), then VTX and Troy USA. The last two are much lower quality and not recommended.
Calibrated, Professional IPF Powerlifting Discs
IPF-style, steel powerlifting plates are machine calibrated to very tight weight tolerances; typically to within about 10 grams of stated weight. They have a precise 50 mm opening, a much slimmer profile than basic cast iron plates, and they are painted according to the IPF coloring scheme. Most calibrated plates on the market are in kilograms, but Rogue Fitness was kind enough to offer these in pounds as well.
Pricing for calibrated, certified plates is obviously going to be more than what you’d pay for non-calibrated, machined plates. Needless to say it’s a whole lot more than what you’d pay for simple cast iron. Don’t expect much in the way of savings for buying sets unless you buy massive sets (400 kg or more.) Vulcan and Strongarm Sport have the best prices, and they both utilize the calibration plugs for increased accuracy.
Price Comparisons (25 kilogram pair)
 | Rogue Calibrated Powerlifting Discs (IPF)Precision steel with calibration plugs; accurate to within 10 grams of stated weight. Change plates and a 50 kg plate are available. Sold in pairs and sets. IPF approved. |
 | Vulcan Calibrated Powerlifting DiscsCalibrated to within 10g of stated weight, these are priced comparably to the Rogue’s but just might have a cooler look to them. Sold in pairs or sets. Pair of 25 kg plates: $243 |
 | Powerlifting Competition Discs (IPF)Precision cast iron discs. No weight tolerance is offered by Sweden, but they are IPF-approved. Sold in pairs and sets. Pair of 25 kg plates: $260 |
 | Titex Powerlifting Competition Discs (IPF)Precision cast iron plates that are calibrated to within .25% of stated weight. They are IPF-approved, ugly as sin, and sold in both pairs and sets. Pair of 25 kg plates: $216 |
 | Ivanko Calibrated Powerlifting Discs (IPF)These are similar to Rogue’s discs. They are extremely accurate thanks to the calibration plugs. They come in all the same sizes as Rogue; including a 50 kg disc. Sold in single discs only. Pair of 25 kg plates: $367 |
 | Strongarm Sport Calibrated Powerlifting DiscsPrecision steel with calibration plugs; accurate to within 10 grams of stated weight. Sold in sets only. Not IPF approved but the price per kilo is great on large sets. Pair of 25 kg plates: $262+ CANADIAN |
 | Strength Shop UK Slim Powerlifting DiscsAvailable only in Europe, these are not calibrated or IPF-approved, but they are accurate to within 1% and a viable option for those without these US-based options. Sold as singles. Pair of 25 kg plates: £198 (EU ONLY) |
There is a slight lack of consistency among the different brands when it comes to the size of the plates. All 25 kg plates are 450 mm in diameter and about 26-27 mm thick, but 20 kg plates can be either 400 mm or 450 mm depending on brand. Titex has smaller diameter 20 kg plates, while the others maintain the 450 mm on 20 kg plates. If you ask me, the 20 and 25 kg plates being the same diameter is best.
Vulcan Powerlifting Discs before being painted. What a beautiful plate!
Rubber / Urethane Coated Steel Plates
Generally considered more of a commercial gym product, coated plates are becoming more commonplace in home/garage gyms. People tend to like them because of the handles (they are easy to move around and use for random exercises), the lack of rust issues versus iron, and the fact that are just nice looking. While more expensive than simple cast iron, they are still more affordable than calibrated discs, and they do last a long time.
Technically speaking, urethane is a better and longer lasting material than rubber. It is also more expensive. If your plates are stored indoors and not exposed to the elements, there is probably no need to pay for urethane over rubber. Also, keep in mind that coated plates are not bumper plates.
Price Comparisons (45-pound pair)
 | CAP OPHR Rubber Coated PlatesRubber coated, cast iron plates with no guarantee of accuracy. Sold only in pairs. Not really recommended. Pair of 45’s: $125 |
 | Body Solid Rubber Grip Olympic PlatesRubber coated, cast iron plates with no guarantee of accuracy. Sold individually or in pairs. Very affordable. Pair of 45’s: $143 |
 | Vulcan Quad Grip Rubber Coated PlatesRubber coated, cast iron plates with minimal odor and stainless steel insert. Weight tolerance is within 2% of stated weight. Sold in pairs or sets. Highly recommended at their price point. Pair of 45’s: $182 |
 | American Barbell Rubber Coated PlatesRubber coated, cast iron plates with stainless steel insert and no guarantee of accuracy, though AB is a solid company and these plates have never been reported as inaccurate. Sold only in pairs. Pair of 45’s: $188 |
 | Ivanko Olympic Rubber E-Z Lift PlatesProprietary rubber coated, cast iron plates with minimal odor and high accuracy rating. Available in black, colored, pounds and kilos. Sold as single plates only. Pair of black 45’s: $317 |
 | Rogue 6-Shooter URETHANE Grip PlatesUrethane coated, cast iron plates with no odor, stainless steel insert, and high accuracy rating. Sold in pairs and sets. Very fair pricing for urethane discs with 1% accuracy. Pair of 45’s: $249 |
 | Troy Barbell URETHANE Grip PlateThese urethane coated, cast iron plates are Troy’s commercial plates. They feature no odor, 2% accuracy, and Troy’s interlocking plate system. Sold as singles. Pair of 45’s: $343 |
 | Intek Armor Series URETHANE PlatesHigh-quality urethane-coated, ergonomic-grip plates with no odor, high accuracy. Available in both pounds up to 100-lb plates. Sold only as singles. Very high-end plates. Pair of 45’s: $312 |
 | Iron Grip URETHANE Encased Olympic PlatesImpact resistant urethane coated, cast iron plates with no odor and high level of accuracy. These are extremely common in commercial gyms, but sadly are not round. Sold in pairs. Made in USA. Pair of 45’s: $361 |
When it comes to coated plates, there are really nice options and super shitty options. Just about every box-store manufacturer makes rubber-coated discs; CAP, Body Solid, X-Mark, and Troy’s non-commercial division (VTX and Troy USA); among many others. Just like the economy cast iron plates, accuracy is crap on the cheap coated plates. Save your money.
My Personal Recommendations
My best advice would be to avoid anything in the CAP price range or below unless you can somehow weigh out the discs prior to purchase. I can think of no situation in where it would be acceptable to have weights with tolerances in excess of 10%, and I can’t even begin to imagine being okay with having trash like that in your own gym for your own personal use. I mean talk about not valuing your training.
In terms of brands and value, Rogue has fair prices and highly accurate options in almost every plate style imaginable. Ivanko produces comparable equipment to Rogue, but at one heck of a premium. Troy’s commercial line is also solid for both steel and coated plates, but also expensive. Vulcan has great prices on their coated plates and calibrated discs. Never ignore Vulcan!
Again, if you’re going to go with simple cast iron, try to find them used before buying them new. If you end up having to pay for brand new, opt for machined plates. Price difference is minimal, but quality and accuracy is night and day.
Share me, please.
Found a set of GP (pre-American Barbell) urethane coated plates on CL last year. Filled in the set with a few extra pairs of 10s, 5s, and 2.5s off the AB closeout page. Perfect for body building stuff with loadable dumbbells, EZ curl bar, and Swiss bar. Highly recommended.
Guess this is the exception to my previous statement about all my plates being Vulcan. All my bumpers and change plates are Vulcan. Want the comp plates to match. I consider my GPs separate.
I wonder if they officially stopped printing GP on stuff. It’s technically the parent company – AB didn’t dissolve that as far as I know.
I previously understood GP to be their commercial line with American Barbell being their direct to consumer line. Wonder if they would start to use the AB name across the board as the brand grows.
That’s true, but they’re branding dumbbells and plates with ‘American Barbell’ in commercial settings now, which is why I wonder if they’ve totally abandoned GP.
Sounds like it. Makes sense. Anybody want to trade a set of ultra-rare, vintage GP urethane coated plates for new calibrated steel, haha?
Very timely. Any thought on York rubber interlock (http://www.vulcanstrength.com/Rubber-Coated-Interlocking-Olympic-Plates-p/v-1392.htm)? $171/pr of 45s at Vulcan vs. $160.15 (http://www.vulcanstrength.com/Rubber-Coated-Olympic-Weight-Plates-Vulcan-p/v-rcop.htm) for Vulcan.
Vulcan seems to imply the Yorks come cheaper in sets if you ask them — they may be restricted as to minimum advertised price.
I’m a believer in the York interlocking change plates so wonder whether that feature may be worth the upgrade to the York price.
I completely forgot about those. After seeing this I spent a little time trying to discover their accuracy rating but I can’t seem to find anything. It’s a cool feature, and when Vulcan’s aren’t on sale the Yorks are actually less expensive. Vulcan’s may be more accurate though. That is, we at least know Vulcan’s have the 2% rating – which I can attest to as I do own a set. Either way though, for those who prefer interlocking plates, that feature is probably worth a few bucks more.
Hi JB,
I’m extremely interested in the Vulcan rubber coated quad plates. They’ve confirmed that the 45s are 450mm which is great. I wanted to ask you about the fit on the barbell, does it compare to Rogue 6 shooters or Ivanko revolvers? My biggest gripe with other cheaper rubber coated plates (Northern Lights) is that during deadlifts, the plates rattle too much and I end up with a —////———////— looking setup. Thanks in advance!
They have what I’d call a medium fit on the bar. They are more like commercial weight plates (think the hex Iron Grips) than comp-style plates in terms of that opening diameter. They aren’t loose like a budget CAP plate, but they aren’t tight like Ivanko discs or say Rogue’s calibrated discs. I don’t have a giant set of these so I’ve never been able to stack them for deadlifts, but I really can’t see these as being my first choice for that purpose. I love having them for odds and ends (like the bamboo bar or the Spud pulley) but these have always struck me as a plate meant for loading up plate-loaded devices (as is the case with most of the rubber-coated options)
Thanks JB. I think I’ll just go with standard bumpers. They’re cheaper than machined iron plates.
I misspoke there — my interlocking change plates are Vulcan. John probably knew what I meant but I’ll correct so as not to confuse anyone else.
Just a quick vouch for Troy’s PO/HO commercial line. I bought mine for $1.15/lb. pretty cheap for what they are. Accuracy is great on six pairs of 45’s. I find the fit perfect and accuracy within 1%, and often much closer. Ironically, the smaller plates were a little looser fitting and pushing the 2% mark a little more often. Of course, 2% on a 5 lb plate is still close….within 1.5 oz or 45 grams. I have enough change plates to match them up in equivalent pairs.
Certainly, I lusted after the Rogue KG discs but the Troy plates gave me the same end goal….tight fit (at least on 45’s) and a good accuracy all while being around 50% of the cost of the KG discs. Not saying that I would’ve regret buying the Rogue discs though…
I’m still going back and forth on those damn competition discs. I really want KGs in steel.
Finding those used is a good find, congrats. Also a lot of these plates have the 1-2% accuracy rating for 25’s + but it’s lower for the 10’s and under. It’s probably just too costly to put a lot of milling into plates that only cost a few bucks. Look at what Rogue’s comp change plates cost – so pricey for that accuracy.
To be clear, I bought my plates NEW not used. I only paid $1.15 per pound rather than the $1.70 per pound your article shows. I bought them about six months ago. I understand that you just have to get a baseline for price, and aren’t scouring every website ever to get the best price.
Ohh, where did you buy them? I want to have the lower price if I can find it, but you’re right I don’t spend hours on each product hunting prices; esp on stuff people probably aren’t going to want anyway, you know? I used to, but as quick as prices change or rotate out, posts end up being incorrect with pricing anyway. That’s why like under Vulcan’s plates I didn’t list the sale price. What a nightmare trying to keep up with everyone’s sales, clearances, etc. Plus, I have to assume folks will do their due diligence if actually making a purchase. I sure hope they are.
I’m feeling kind of stuck looking for gripper-style kilo rubber- or urethane-coated.
My bumpers and change plates are kilo and I suspect buying pounds here would lead to my buying more total plates than if i can find the right kilo buy but I can’t seem to locate a reasonable choice.
Yeah you’re not going to find much. I’ve done that search countless times. Even companies that sell in the states that produce both pounds and kilograms don’t even ship the kilos into the US to sell. York has steel kilogram discs, but not coated, but even the price on those kilo plates are so high that you might as well by IPF discs from Rogue or Eleiko.
But yeah, I lift entirely in kilograms so I feel your pain. I’d love for someone like Troy to offer the HO or Interlocking models in kilograms. Something affordable and accurate, but not necessarily calibrated. Maybe even at a slight premium to make up for less demand.
IM.SAD…you forget my country .The France..
. Loool in my principal residence homegym .for my “big 3” training i own a complete PALLINI set of 545 kgs (>1100lbs) set . The most of set is composed with one pair of 50 kgs and six pairs of 25kgs.(+ all fractional plates on pair of each). Discs are in finest STEEL (no easy yo rust like ordinary cheap steel).
with epoxy paint and perfect balance ! A few thinner than Eleiko (and one few less prehensile but i like thin disks…and i use only of 25kgs..i use.50 pair in second work post assigned to big rack movment with old bar..445kg is suffisant for all .lol). PALLINI is same quality than Eleiko but for (in France) a cost of lonely 80/85percent of sweedish brand. . . Easy to see my set on my Youtube chain !.just me watch this brand .just rescherch pallini 545 kilos set powerlifting (alan levy )
lol Alan you are right I did not consider France or Pallini. Keep in mind that 98% of people who see this article will only buy cast iron anyway, and the majority of them are in USA. I have to kind of draw the line in such a way that keeps the post at a reasonable length, that’s why I rarely have stuff like Pallini, Leoko, ZKC, etc. Especially in USA where Rogue prices are better than all others. Truthfully, Rogue wins the day in almost all four categories in terms of value, quality, and price. But if I only had Rogue listed I’d be called a Rogue fanboy. So I present the other reasonable options, and let readers decide.
Lool im french and in all my activities i include american option !!! (Im in shooting club and i love safari bolt rifles)
.Because Usa is lonely country with best bolt weapon of world …and others im sure but in france lonely HUNTING REPETITION RIFLE (and 3 shot semi auto) are free like in nebraska lol . For cars..i buy geeman..frenchies are no able to make V12 or V8 engine…i dont have choice loool…p.s Leoko is a very good optiôon too.. lol (i own an old oly lifting of this finish brand lol) my dream fot my homegym is AN ELEPHANT BAR….im sure in a future i will be one very rare french with an Elephant bar in heir homegyms. ☺tink international loool
They are totaly silly if after this article they want iron cast !!!! If if im live in U.S A and i read This article …i buy IMMEDIATLY ROGUE STEEL power discs !!!! (Except if i want an old York Set .a true vintage 1928/1960…or a new complete set..legacy York are very beautiful an relativly accurate)…but lose 100 $ in a “45” pairs with a true weight if 42….or 47.. its SHAME…and never i can see iron cast like before !!! YORK IS TOTALLY DIFFERENT…before certification of barbell(1963/64) in oly games or all championship all gear was WEIGHT SCALED…and in all case york was heavier of < 1percent…but never lighter. And its not a problem for me..
For your cast iron plates its easy to upgrade them ! With fuse alloy (weights for car’s tyres balance do the job if god repartition on circle…) and good scale of weight ! Sometimes i was in obligation to do that .the tare for added weight and homogeneised a pair by upper (i refuse to retire weight..) you can obtain exact maxi weight …after just à little discharge of paint spray just on added weight and you have trues lifting weights !
That’s a pretty good idea. What if they are too heavy? smack em with a hammer to chip them? =p
If its too heavy. U use a drill (1/4″ drill bit) and you pit 6 regular partial hole just fore remove metal weight( distribued around central hole) … and its easy to obtain true indicated weight
If you dont use lead its more interresting to buy direct good accuracy plates. Me i do reloading for shooting and i have 2 secondary residence with an homegym on each !! I bUy old WEIDER iron cast inacurate (but never more 2lbs of difference fir 45lbs plates) for holliday house (its just for BODYBUILDINGS AND FITNESS. IN HOLLIDAYS WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILLY..for that i never buy another Pallini or Eleiko set..i like pro gear but when its necessary.)…NEVER I PREPARE COMPETITION OF POWER OR OLY LIFT WITH IT !!!!!!…in my true principal house i own professional gear .
Rogue and Pallini or Eleiko are 3 king choices !!! Ivanko exagerate seriously his prices !!! Why that ?? Ivanko is a wonderfull brand but nothing can justify an overcost of 30/45 % vs brand like Eleiko Pallini or Rogue (all 4 are certified) ….Ivanko can sell a bar very very expensive…because this brand is LONELY able to offer a FULL STAINLESS STEEL BAR…. .but for plates were is advantages????? P.S.
if IVANKO plates are in S.S….im sorry and agree the overcost because in wet atmosphere or in spa.. Stainless Plates can be justified. And S.S alloy is expensive its natural.
Im near of certitude than IVANKO PLATES ARE REALLY IN STAINLESS STEEL …
brand and weight mentions are in bare steel and never i see one oxyded ….i want search on it..but its logic Ivanko is know for total durability ! Im no able to trust than Ivanko can sell same items than challenger but 2 times overcost… .i had see Ivanko powerset in swiming pool /gym/sauna complex…and i never see a point of rust on it….all are shinny like new gear !
Well the metal ones are chromed. Heavily chromed. I doubt they’re stainless, they’d definitely say so right? That’s something to brag about.
Oki i like All Chromed Ivanko …but serious 360 $ for 2x55lbs its…creazy. a total of 2980$ for a complete set (8 red pairs if no use 110lbs pairs) and withouth bar or fractional pairs !!!! Rigue facture that 1000$ in less !!!! (Price of good bar more all fractional pairs)….545 kgs/1205 lbs SET cost around 2800$ by Rogue….3600$ by Pallini 4100$ by Eleiko….but more of 5000$ by Ivanko.. (Rogue bar is very cheap for a good bar.. i do t know why that but..Ivanko Pallini or .Eleiko bar cost 1000$)
Eleiko has already lowered prices once to compete with all these new manufacturers like Rogue. Eventually other manufacturers will feel the sting of lower priced Rogue stuff, and will also lower prices. If they don’t, they’ll sink. Ivanko can survive longer no doubt because they sell to commercial gyms still, and that’s excellent money. I think prices will continue to fall into line with Rogue over the years, but I could be wrong. Ivanko is a rip off tho, that’s no secret. They are too proud, and stubborn I think. I’d buy Ivanko for 10% more than Rogue, but they aren’t going to do that anytime soon.
Here’s an option for Garage Gym logogear: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Commerical-PU-Bumper-Plate-PU-Weight_60565348187.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.31.2980754dqiggWA&s=p
Chinese kg plates with your logo that present the appearance of a Rogue urethane six-shooter but in kg. Minimum appears to be 30 pairs of plates in your choice of 10/15/20kg plate size — so if average plate was 15kg, it’d be a 900kg order for what looks to be about $2/kg., about $0.91/lb I don’t see precision spec., nor am I clear on any shipping charges.
haha yeah, I’ve kind of played around with that too. Not a chance
The sad part is that some of the Chinese firms are probably making good plates, and in fact a lot of the plates we see are probably from there — which means some U.S. company sorted the details well enough with a Chinese company but they don’t bother to keep the kilo-consuming end users here in supply even when the minimum order sizes are trivial to them.
Just about everything but Hi Temp and Iron Grip comes from Asia anyway, so yeah they can be as good or bad as you’re willing to pay for. I guess someone did the math at some point and decided demand was too low to bother. Maybe I’ll be rich and famous one day and be able to offer affordable kilo plates to the states. We deserve it! =p
Eleiko 25kg and 20kg plates are the same diameter (450mm). All are thinner than the Rogue plates by a couple of mm. I would have bought Titex but the colour scheme made me want to throw up in my mouth a bit. Currently Eleiko are having major stock problems but that should be fixed soon. They dropped their price a lot recently but have gone up a bit again. If Vulcan provide steel calibrated plates in KG that should set the cat among the pigeons.
If you are a competing powerlifter or weightlifter, you should only consider steel IPF approved calibrated KG plates or IWF calibrated KG bumper plates. They are worth the money and will hold their price if you decide to sell a few years down the track. If you consider how much you spend on coffee and restaurants, plates are not expensive.
Ivanko are not worth the inflated price plus the plugs fall out.
You see I thought that they were the same size, but the website reports otherwise so I went with the “official” word. Also yes, those Titex plates are awful looking.
Ivanko prices are horrendous, and it’s a shame.
I can confirm that Eleiko’s 20 and 25 kg plates **are** the same diameter.
I don’t know how they let it slip on their website, since the error is pretty obvious and would make the 20kg plate exactly the same volume as the 15kg, but magically 5kg heavier.
I had thought I updated that but apparently not. It is now though. Thanks Ivan.
You should include Challenge Barbell’s steel plates. They are originate in India but have seen British and Canadians use them in gyms. I like their old school look and bet they are reasonably priced. They are IPF approved as well.
Thanks for the suggestion. Challenge isn’t on the IPF list though. http://www.powerlifting-ipf.com/fileadmin/ipf/data/rules/approved-list/NEW_IPF_Approved_List_24-10-2017.pdf
The big red IPF text on their site is just a reference to them offering Titan lifting gear – like Titan suits and belts and such – which are IPF approved.
I’ll dig a little deeper though and see if it’s worth adding these to the list though.
Not sure if something changed, but Rogue now lists their machined plates as +2, -0 instead of +/-2
I think that would be considered an improvement to the plates. Gives them the same range as a +/-1 like their 6-Shooters
Indeed they do – I updated the listing to reflect that. Thank you Billy.
I’m sure they didn’t change anything with the plates, probably the product page was not published properly before. But who knows.
I was wondering if my cast iron plates are 17″ is that a bad thing to lift with? because there is a fitness gym that sells new cast iron for .71 a pound and wanted to buy a couple 45lb pairs
as far for deadlifts…
So long as all your plates are that size I hardly think taking 1/4″ off the height of the bar will matter.
What happens if one steel plate is 1/4 in bigger?
Well generally you want to keep all the plates the same diameter because those smaller plates won’t ever hit the floor, so it puts all the work of absorbing impact on the plates that are touching. With steel it’s less of an issue, but with bumpers you almost never want to mix plate diameters – beyond a few lighter change plates anyway. Of course it really just depends on the amount of weight too. You wouldn’t want one pair of 17.5″ 45’s alongside 3 more pair of smaller diameter 45’s. You’d probably start to put a bend in the bar. I would never actually recommend deviating from 17.5″ / 450 mm plates, and if you already have normal size plates that’s even more reason to keep shopping around. If these plates are new at .70 a pound, they probably aren’t going to go the distance anyway. THat’s pretty damn cheap for new.
the reason its cheap because they’re 20% off heres the link
http://extremetrainingequipment.com/index.php/olympic-iron-plate.html
should I invest or wait
How do you know they aren’t 17.5″?
They told me
I see. Well, to your original question I don’t think the small size difference matters for deadlifts if your whole set was 17″ plates. I don’t think that adding a single pair of 45’s to an existing normal collection of plates is that big of a deal either.
Now would I personally buy economy plates that weren’t at the very least the right size? No. Cheap plates are already totally inaccurate so you have that flaw to deal with. To add yet another flaw (mismatched sizing) to them when you can just as easily find used normal-sized steel plates for (at worst) .20 more per pound, but potentially less than .70 per pound, well I think I’d just wait and scan the used Craigslist market.
Not to throw another factor into this, but there’s a chance whoever told you they were 17″ doesn’t know what he/she is talking about. It’s as likely that they really are 17.5″ and you got a wrong answer as it is likely they are 17″ and you got the right answer. I mean it’s very rare anyone deviates from the normal size, but it does happen rarely. Who knows.
I’ll probably go check them out and measure them myself lol
Say I buy nothing but 17″ and sell the 17.5″ pair because it is difficult to find larger sizes on craigs and even offerup, would I be okay?
yeah of course
As for the basic cheap cast iron, Rep Fitness guarantees theirs to 3% (according to their website), so at least tolerable tolerances below the price of machined plates. I think they take the crown for cheap cast iron online.
They are also $0.89 per pound ( before shipping) regardless of what size plate you get, so they win on price too.
So they are. I have added them. Thanks Billy
2 brands of ipf aproved plates not included are bull and challenge
Indeed. Do you know of any retail outlets for Challenge or Bull in the US/Europe? In an effort to keep posts readable I tend to omit anything obscure or not readily available.
I’m from Canada and I know inner strength sell bull equipment and I’m pretty sure they ship to the us. Also strongarmsport sells challenge plates (cheapest calibrated plates in Canada) they also ship to the us.
Bull are still on the IPF approved list. Challenge is not (and not sure if they ever were) although they are still calibrated so fine for gym use, just not for competitions.
Shopping for home gym now, was planning on .50 a poind used Craigslist weights but i didnt realize until reading your article that cast iron can be up to 10% inaccurate, so i may spring for some better plates. are the Rep machined plates better than the Rep bumper plates? they are the same price but the machined plates have the 2% guarantee but the bumpers dont. also as someone who owns ZERO plates, what plate allotment do I need? I was thinking one pair of 2.5, one pair of 5, one pair of 10, one pair of 25, and then 2-3 pairs of 45
Bumper plates are generally very accurate – up there with machined plates. You don’t have to worry about that with dealers like Rep, Rogue, Vulcan, etc. It’s the CAPs and other chain store brands that you’d want to worry about being accurate.
If you see plates on Craigslist, search for that brand and model and see if they are machined or not. Could still potentially get a deal if someone is selling machined plates on the cheap and they don’t know it. Probably not, but it’s possible.
You’ll need single pair of 2.5, 5, and 25, double pair of 10 is ideal, and however many 45s (or 55s, if available) you want. Just don’t buy 35s unless the price on a set is just too good to pass up.
Rep lists their basic bumpers as having 3% tolerance. If they’re better than that in actuality, they’re a steal, as they are priced very well ($139/pair of 45’s). Please tell me it’s true, haha! I hadn’t even considered them, due to the 3% stat.
Got this reply from Rep today, via email:
“Hey Dakhil,
The black and colored bumpers will have a 3% tolerance.
The Competition bumper plates will have a tolerance to +/- 10g.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.”
I’ve had 4 separate reps (3 via live chat and one by email) at Rogue verify that their basic black cast iron plates are +/- 2% tolerance and 2 of them have said they’ll reach out to their “product team” to request updating the page. If that’s true they are a great value making them +/-2%, machined at +2%/-0%, and 6-shooter at +/-1%
Do you actually have those plates? I’d love to have someone throw them on a scale to confirm that. It’s probably true though – the overall reviews are too good for them to be off by over 2%
I do not have them yet, I plan to get them this summer when I buy a full garage gym setup. I’ve mostly been communicating with Rogue to decide if I should pay the extra for machined to get within the 2% range.
are “Cemco revolver” plates good at $1 per lb locally?
The coated plates? They are 2% accurate according to their site. A buck a pound for coated machined plates isn’t bad at all so long as they’re not beaten up.
I did some googling, they are Cemco Power Grip plates (machined iron) they are supposedly commercial quality Ivanko Revolver knockoffs. so $1.66 a lb for Rep Equalizers or $1 a lb for used Cemco (no rust, were used at a small gym it seems)
Yeah seems pretty good.
I was wondering on some plates since some may weigh more than 45 could some drilling in the plate so I can make it as even as possible close to 45lb work, and if it weighs less weld a washer or something to the plate?
You could. I’ve heard of people doing this. I’m actually tempted to try it on some crappy plates just to see where the best place to do that would be as to not compromise the plate. If you try it, remember that these plates are cast iron and not steel, and cast iron is brittle by comparison. I think this is probably only a good idea if the weight is barely off – I think taking a pound or more out of a plate would result in some fairly large and/or numerous holes. Maybe someone who has done this will chime in.
so what your saying is lol if I drill to many holes it’ll just crumb away hahaha
maybe adding weight to it would be easier by adding washers that are welded to it… can cast iron be welded?
haha no not exactly, just that if you drop cast iron plates onto concrete or a piece of equipment, it is possible for it to crack and chip. So if you’re going to weaken the plate with holes there is probably ideal locations to do this as to not increase the odds of it cracking along a line of holes. Maybe one bigger diameter hole is better than multiple little holes? I just don’t know. I’m certainly not saying it’s going to fall apart on its own lol.
I don’t think you’d want to weld cast iron for any load bearing application, but I’m sure washers being welded to a cast iron plate would hold fine. As would any industrial glue (and you don’t have to weld).
What if where I drop it is on rubber mat, I can test it by drilling one hole and see how much weight it takes off huh?
Glue would stick to iron?
I mean I’m not actually thinking you’ll break the plate – it’s very unlikely. I’m just making you aware that if you take a lot out of a cast iron piece you would increase the already present likelihood slightly. I would maybe even consider not going all the way through – maybe find the thicker portion of the plate to drill in 50% and re-weigh.. but you will need to have a fairly accurate scale for this to even be worth doing, ya? Sounds like maybe you’re not sure based on the bar weight comment haha
I mean are we talking about a 45 pound plate that weighs something awful like 48.5 pounds? Cause if it’s like within 2% already I wouldn’t even bother.
I appreciate it! This website has given me insight in so much! That I ended up maximizing my garage and programming! If I didn’t find this site I would’ve spent so much on gym fees and trainers. This site introduced me to starting strengths program and what equipment to get! With the DIY it inspired me to weld my own bench and rack and cost me $300 to make all of it! (I’ll send pics soon)… Going to rep you in my gym by buying a banner next weeks pay check!
I’m glad to have helped; truly. Yes gym pics and especially DIY pics are always fun for me.
I appreciate that, Isaac. Thank you )
Any opinion with respect to ergonomic grip steel Intek plates ?
Durability, weight accuracy, fit & finish etc..
Thanks!
I don’t know how accurate those plates are supposed to be, but I’m guessing since no accuracy claim is made that there pretty much isn’t one (it’s not on the spec sheet pfd either). Prices are too high to not be at least 1-2% guarantee though – I’d keep looking.
It’s probably worth pointing out to people that “3% tolerance” or “+/-3%” means it can vary from -3% to +3%, so it’s a 6% potential difference between plates. That means one “45lb” plate can weigh 46.4 lbs, and another can weigh 43.6 lbs, with a potential difference of almost 3 lbs, which is terrible in my opinion. Think about this: if you are deadlifting 405, you might be lifting ~12 pounds more on one side. In a worst case scenario, you may try to load 405, and end up with 394 or 416.
In other words, don’t bother purchasing or using 2.5 lbs or change plates if you get plates with a 3% accuracy.
The Rogue plates that are +2%/-0% are guaranteed to weigh at least their stated weight, so they are actually +/-1% (however the middle of the range is 1% above the stated weight), which is fantastic. Their other bargain plates that say +/-1% have the same precision, but different accuracy since they can be below weight or above weight. I urge everyone to vote with your money and demand at least +/-1% or +2/-0% accuracy for low cost plates. The only reason we aren’t getting good accuracy with every manufacturer is because we aren’t demanding it; China only produces crap products when we tell them to.
If you’re advanced enough to consider using change plates <=2.5, then you need to hunt around for plates within 1%, because at 4 plates per side that's an average variance of about 3.5 lbs (7 lbs for 2%, and 11 lbs for 3%). You need to make sure that your variance is below the smallest increment you intend to use. Alternatively, you could use precisely the same combination and orientation of plates with each workout, perhaps even using a spreadsheet or plate loading app to calculate exact values; in this latter case you could make use of those change plates.
Are there any scales you can recommend that are suitable for weighing plates? I am not sure I can trust the scale I use for weighing myself. What scale do you use?
I’d personally recommend a package scale. Anything highly rated on Amazon should do (like Accuteck A-BC200). They generally are only accurate to the a few oz when they get to over 20 lbs, but that’s good enough so long as the readings are consistent.
However, there’s not much you can do if your weights are off, so it may be better to not know. It shouldn’t matter too much unless you are a serious power lifter anyway, because if you aren’t a serious athlete then how much sleep you got or what you ate that day will push you ten or twenty pounds in either direction.
Not by brand or anything, no. I have a super accurate food scale that goes up to 5 kg for smaller things, and I have access to a nice offsite shipping scale for heavier things – but it’s not mine and it’s not here and I haven’t a clue where it came from. Looks expensive though.
Just got done watching Larry wheels in the super league competition and I’m trying to figure out what company makes the plates they use at least in that particular episode
haha yeah I don’t know, those are custom by someone. Maybe someone knows. Pretty badass. Very metal
Rogue has increased there price on the powerlifting disk
So noted, and updated. Thanks Daniel
I talked with the York rep and he said they recently changed foundries for their Standard cast iron plates. He told me the standard plates currently better quality than their milled and they will be having the new foundry also produce their legacy milled plates. At the time I ordered mine he recommended the Standard over the legacy. I received them recently and all 4 45’s were within .4 lb using my digital scale. Very impressed with these plates. The only down side was some minor chipping from shipping. Boxes should be a little heavier duty.
Oh that’s good to know. I’m glad you got that info from them… I’ve reached out to York but I never get a response.
Did he say where they’re making them now?
I currently have an assortment of iron plates at different weight and sizes that I purchased when I first started the gym. They actually work for deadlifting since I can put the larger 45s on first and just slide the smaller 45s on after. I’m unsure if there are negatives there but anyway, I now want consistency among my plates since I’m far along on building my gym. I’m stuck between the Rep Equalizers and the Vulcan rubber grip plates. The cost of the 2 are comparable since Vulcan has a discounted price and includes shipping. Set (5-45s, 1-25 and 2-10s) from Rep would be $915 while Vulcan would be $978. Other than sound and potential rust differences do you know of any other factors to separate the 2?
No the rust and sound (well and the cost) are the biggest factors to consider. They have the same accuracy range so that doesn’t change anything.
I have the Vulcans and have had no issue with them but I only have a smaller set and haven’t exactly put them through the ringer. Honestly they just feel like a slightly less refined version of an Iron Grip or Ivanko plate – something you’d see in a Gold’s or Lifetime. By less refined I mean minor surface imperfections wouldn’t stop them from being sold like the more expensive, commercial plates. Does that make sense? I can’t possibly imagine ever having an issue with them. That said, the Rep plates probably have their share of minor casting imperfections too, but sure they’re a cool looking plate and you can choose between hammertone and black. Then again, they are also out of stock in black.
Thanks for the response and yes, that makes sense. I considered the Vulcans because they were in the same price range of Reps and I know Vulcan provides quality product. I figured a rubber coated price that is in the same price range of iron is worth the look but if there isn’t much of a difference I may just go with my eyes. Those Reps just look sick in either color and I’m leaning towards the hammertone. I dont see many pictures of the hammertone but the few I’ve seen look great.
I bought the rep gray equalizers. They are good plates and doesnt hurt the price dropped to $104 for pair of 45s. I’m unsure if they are discontinuing the color but I like how they look in various lighting. I may buy more since they are discounted 20%
Oh they did lower that price huh? And only on that color. Interesting. Well good, you got a great deal then and that’s always the way to go. I appreciate the feedback on them too, thank you!
They dropped the price right after I bought them. They gave me a credit to use and I’m thinking of either more grays or try their power speed bar.
Oh that was cool of them. If you don’t need a bar I’d load up on plates but that’s just me!
I dont need a bar but right now I only have 1 Olympic bar and that’s the vulcan standard (no complaints or issues). I’d like to have a power bar but if they are discontinuing the color, I’d buy more plates to keep it uniform. Who knows I may increase my deadlift 400 pounds and will need more plates. Lol. I sent them a message to see if they were discontinuing the grays so we shall see.
All of my current plates are Rogue KG Training 2.0 bumper plates so I can practice ballistic lifts. But they’re kind of overkill, mainly in terms of space, for deadlifts. Do you see any issue with mixing full size bumper plates with smaller diameter (15 kg / 10 kg) IPF KG steel plates for grinds like deadlifts?
Not at all. You’d be doing the same thing if you had kg steel plates instead of the bumpers anyway
Do you lift in pounds, kilos, or both?
I would like to add a set of calibrated steel plates to my apartment gym. I currently own over 1/4 ton of bumpers in pounds, but have started focusing on powerlifting and like the idea of having IPF plates. Do you have any experience converting from pounds to KGs? Or is this just a terrible idea?
Thanks for the great website.
I did it years ago. It’s just a process; it involves taking a little bit of a hit on your original investment of those Imperial plates. I don’t suggest doing it until you can afford enough kilo plates to do all your workouts, then turn around and get what you can get for the pounds on the used market.
You can keep the 55-lb plates if you have any because they do directly convert to 25 kilograms; that might save you a little money so long as you don’t mind seeing ‘lbs’ on your plates.
Personally I’m glad I did it. I find working with kilograms to be much easier – all the nice, round numbers and better change plate variety.
Oh missed that top question. Yeah all my main lifts are in kilos. I have a collection of Imperial plates that I really only use for loading the lat tower.
I own a variety of plates (mostly junk) that I picked up on the used market for $0.50/lb or less. Most of the cheap plates deviate from their indicated weight 5-6%; several of them are spot on. One Sports Authority branded 45 is 15% off. My Star Tracs are only 1.1% off. My aim here is 2-2.5% accuracy. I’m currently in the process of selling off the ones that are way off.
Thanks Erik. No doubt many will find these measurements helpful.
Purchased a pair of rogue DB-15s (dumbbell work) and a bunch of their cast iron plates: 16x 10lb, 4x 5lb, 4x 2.5lb.
Had a problem where one of the 5lb weights didn’t fit on the bar, so they sent me another pair, for a total of 6x 5lb plates.
I used two different kitchen scales and corroborated they were both showing similar measurements (exactly the same). Each device could measure within 1/20th of an oz. I had intended to post each weight for every plate, but instead I’ll just post any outliers and results.
The weights I received were on average 1.5% off. The worst offender was a 2.5lb plate that weighed 2lb 9.9 oz (almost 5% heavier).
Four out of the 16 tens were within 1/10 of an oz (I’d call that perfect) and two of the six 5lb plates were also spot on. Zero of the four 2.5lb plates were perfect.
I considered several different setups for my plates before purchasing. However, change plate prices are much more expensive in their machined counterparts. The 2.5lb and 5lb machined plates from rogue are MORE than double the cost of the cast iron plates, and the 10lb machined plates are exactly double the cost. I needed a lot of plates and I couldn’t justify that cost.
That being said, I love my plates and it doesn’t bother me that I may have 98.5lbs in one hand and 101.5 in the other when I am doing bench. I want them to be reasonably close, but im just a normal guy who likes to throw weight around. Plus, I love the way these plates look and sound, they have that oldschool gym vibe.
It’s kind of funny how the lightest plates were the most inaccurate. Doesn’t make a lot of sense, but it’s probably best case scenario so whatever. Sounds like you did pretty good overall for going with non-machined cast iron.
Yeah, the lighest ones were the most inaccurate, but that’s % wise. I had two 10lb plates that were 4oz’s off, but that is only 2.5% from stated weight.
Our basement should be finished in the next few weeks and then it will be time to add even more gym goodness. Biggest hurdle I am having is finding a stand-alone lat pulldown/row machine. I would rather not hook up that spud inc. system as it looks like it also needs to be removed on days its not needed.
Also, thanks for the gym-flooring guide. Wife and I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and saw those horse stall mats you recommended. I think they were 49.99 now (3’x4′), but that’s still miles cheaper than any other option.
I have a lat tower/row machine coming for a review. They’re not hard to find, but it is hard to find a solid, reliable unit that’s not $3-4k or more. I’m excited about it – it’s actually a selectorized unit, not a plate loaded tower.
I bought some new York standard plates that are well cast with accuracy within 2% and center holes cut 51.9mm to 52.2mm on my digital calipers. I’m quite pleased with them. I talked with a York rep prior to ordering. He said they recently moved production to a new foundry and casting on standard plates is much improved from a few years ago. Seem to be the case based on my experience
I’m not so much surprised that you got everything within 2% as I am that a York rep spoke to someone =p
Interesting information. I’m in my 50’s been power lifting for 30+ years with my old cheap plates. They don’t seem to bother me. I’m in the 400’s in bench I don’t feel any weight discrepancy. I also lift rocks, iron chunks, etc – so precise accuracy isn’t too important to me. I’m always looking for cheap 45lb plates! Preferably black and rusty!!
You might consider adding Intek Armor series to the Urethene coated section.
About $300 for a pair of 45s list price, but high quality and great ergonomics when available on the used market. Worth noting that the 10 pound plates are oddly thick…
I could work those in. I mean they definitely aren’t the most expensive option out there
Thanks for the great info on this site. On the less expensive end of things, I was looking at Rep but the shipping got me. I noticed that Titan offers cast iron plates at around the same price but with free shipping. They claim weight tolerance of +/- 2%. Any thoughts on these?
Everything at Titan is inexpensive. They’re a junk dealer, but they are a popular alternative to those who care less about quality, performance, and durability than about money. You kind of have to think of shopping at Titan like shopping at Academy, Dick’s, or Wal-Mart. Plates aren’t the worst thing one could buy from a box-store, but you’ll still never catch me recommending that brand.
I know you mentioned Troy plates up there. How do these compared to the ones you have pictured above, and would you recommend Troy as a brand? https://www.amazon.com/Troy-Machine-Olympic-Weight-Plates/dp/B002FEN34E
Machined iron vs. urethane for a home gym – what’s your preference?
Those you linked are machined; rated at 2%. Seems fine by me.
I prefer steel over coated plates personally, but it’s all about preference. Some people like coated plates because they’re quieter and cleaner looking. Doesn’t really matter so long as you’re dealing with an accurate plate.
Any thought on Cerberus Calibrated Steel plates? They are back order till September but could be a alternative for anyone looking in the future.
I don’t personally know anything about Cerberus. I tried to look at the product page but it doesn’t exist. Links to them do, as do images from whatever page was there, but they’ve removed that page as far as I can tell
https://cerberus-strength.com/collections/barbells-plates
This is the page that I was looking at. I don’t personally have any interest in the power bars on the page as you’ve stated they’re black oxide and in the price range of Stainless Steel. However the plates look good they are sold individually.
I clicked that link. The only thing on that page is Cast-Iron Plates (Pre-Order). Maybe they made a site update since you first loaded their pages. You may have the pages cached. I promise you, there are no calibrated plates, and no bars. /shrug
With gyms on lockdown, seems like a great excuse to start a home gym. What are your thoughts on Hampton Fitness urethane plates? Reputable?
I have no first-hand experience with these and I’ve heard nothing; good or bad. In today’s market options are quite limited though so you take what you can get.
For the Vulcan Rubber Plates, is that +/- 2% (4% total variance), or 2% total variance, as in +2%, -0%?
It’s actually +/- 1% now. Generally they only tend to go over though. Usually.
I was referring to there rubber-coated plates, which still says +/- 2% on their site. The bumpers are +/- 1% though.
On a side not, I wonder why Rep has so many +/- 3% options that are more costly than their Equalizer iron plates? Seems a bit odd.
I’m torn between Vulcan bumpers (great “out-the-door price” and build), Rep Equalizers (buying a rack soon and they’d ship free with it), and Rogue calibrated steel plates (superb tolerance and fair price, although higher than the other options). Do you hav any thoughts on the matter? I’m not an Olympic lifter, but rubber being quiet is appealing. I grew up on steel, so how could I not love the sound of the clang and bang, haha! Tough one!
I wouldn’t buy bumpers if you’re not tossing the bar around. They’re too thick and they become problematic on accessories and deadlift bars because of that extra width. Rubber or steel though? That’s a personal choice I’d say. I’m personally not one to gravitate towards coated plates, but I get it if noise is a factor in your home – kids, neighbors, etc.
Anything on the Titan calibrated plates?
I don’t generally review or mention Titan products unless there is a really good reason to do so.
Rep Fitness just increased the price of their standard cast iron plates and they now have a 5% weight tolerance guarantee. Just a heads up!
Yeah, price increases don’t surprise me anymore. Those are still pretty cheap plates though.. basically no different than buying plates at Dick’s or Academy. It’s likely they switched (perhaps unavoidably) to a different manufacturer and took what they could get for this budget option.
I have a good lead on the American Barbell rubber plates. However, they are only 17 inches in diameter compared to the IPF spec of 17.72. Based on your experience is non spec sized plates an issue down the road as strength increases?